Sunday, March 6, 2016

Uncle Ho

Trip Date: May 14, 2008



Hanoi
No Dong
The bus dropped me off somewhere in Hanoi. I had no dong and no plans, but I met a cute couple from my bus. We chatted at one of the rest stops. They had reservations at a hotel in Hanoi and planned to take a taxi there. Since it would cost nothing extra for me to ride in their cab they told me that I could join them. Once again I would like to say that I love the name the Vietnamese picked for their currency!

Me and temples…
No Rooms
Once we got to their hotel, I was told that it was fully booked. The receptionist, who happened to also be the owner of the hotel told me that she and her sister owned another hotel. She called a guy who she referred to as “little brother” and told him to take me to the other hotel. I hopped on his scooter, shoved my afro into a helmet, and held onto my backpack. He took me to the Hanoi Blue Sky Hotel.
When I got there, the receptionist, who happened to be the sister of the first lady, started to check me in. (I’m not sure if they were biologically sisters or just good friends.) When I told her that I didn’t have any dong, she said that it didn’t matter, “You pay when you check out. This not China!” I loved her instantly.
I ate dinner at the hotel because I could put that on my bill and pay it later. I even signed up for a few trips. I knew that I would find an ATM at some point before I planned to check out or at least stay until I found one. If all else failed I could pay in US dollars or Euros, both are welcomed if not preferred over the dong.
HSBC was my bank of choice. They have ATM’s in many countries. When I got money in Vietnam from an HSBC ATM, I paid no ATM fees. I have since closed my account at HSBC because it’s hard to talk to a human when I call. I have to know a hundred and one codes just to log in or call. And there was something else… oh this.

Uncle Ho’s House
Just to meet some people
In the hotel by the front desk, were posters of day and overnight trips. There was a book that had the trips laid out in detail, with prices for different levels of accommodations. One great thing about the Hanoi Blue Sky Hotel was that the sisters who own it, also owned a junk on Ha Long Bay.
A trip to Ha Long Bay is a great way to get ripped off if you don’t know who to book your trip through.
I usually don’t like tours, but I was traveling alone and wanted to meet some people. There was also the additional benefit that while on a tour, I would not get lost. I picked one of the Hanoi City tours with tickets to see a water puppet show in the evening.

The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
We first went to The Ho Chi Minh MausoleumUncle Ho looked a bit creepy, but the man has been dead for almost 40 years. He was the first dead communist leader I had ever seen. I would end up seeing many more. Actually, only two. Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong-Il has still eluded me and it turns out that they eventually buried both Stalin and Evita Perón, not that Eva was a communist or a leader.
Next it was Ho Chi Minh’s vestige right next to the Mausoleum. I loved that the house he chose to live in was so modest with 3 or 4 BMWs parked out back. I’m sure it’s what the people wanted.
Our next stop was to the Ethnology Museum. It’s really not very interesting indoors. I really don’t care about the many races of Asians that live, or have lived in Vietnam, Thailand, and Laos. Which means I care even less about each individual group’s pottery. To be honest I’m only impress by air-tight containers
But the grounds of the museum was interesting. There were many displays of housing for the plethora of peoples who peopled south-east Asia. Tourists are encouraged to climb in, on, up, and around the structures. And I did! Plus there were some very interesting fertility tombs. Though, I think that once you’re dead, you’re pretty much infertile for good.
We passed by a few forgettable temples. The only one that stood out in my mind was Ngoc Son Temple which was in the middle of the lake. There were some monks doing some serious praying that day, but I don’t know what for.

Dry Water Puppets
Then there was the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre. The water puppets show was all in Vietnamese and lasted 50 minutes. It got boring within the first 10 minutes, but the theater had air-conditioning so I stayed. It was worth all 20,000 Dong (2 dollars at the time) of the ticket price just to cool down!

(Việt Nam)
How to get there:
  • You can enter by plane, train, boat, or bus.
  • Make sure to get a visa before going to Vietnam. Although some nationals can get a visa at the border for a few days, many cannot or will need a visa for longer stays.
  • Visit the Vietnamese embassy in your country to get a visa.
Phone:
Website:
Videos:
Books:


Notes:
  • Don’t worry if you cannot get Vietnamese dong from your local bank back home. You can get your dong at the airport either in your country or in Vietnam. Don’t get too much; no one will buy it back from you. Many hotels, fancy restaurants, and tour agents will take US dollars or Euros. Though, who knows what exchange rate they will use? You will need dong for taxis, small shops, and local restaurants and vendors.
  • When you get to Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh pick up a map of the area from any hotel, hostel, travel agency, or tourist information center. Once you have one of those you’ll be able to find anything.
  • Having a map of the area in Hanoi is very important. Every block has a different street name so once you know the name of street something is on you can easily find it with a map.
  • Wherever you choose to stay, make sure you bring a picture and the address of the hotel. One common trick that taxi and motorbike-taxi drivers like to pull is to take you to the wrong hotel. When you say, “I asked for ABC Hotel!” They will tell you that the name changed. They usually get a commission for bringing tourist to certain hotels.
    • Sometimes hotels do change names. But most likely a hotel will not change names between the time of your booking accommodations and your arrival without telling you.
  • Also for taxis, NEVER agree to a flat rate fee. The flat rate fee will always be way higher than it should be. Always demand that the cab driver use the meter. If he doesn’t want to use his meter, get out. Taxi drivers are a dime a dozen. This is true in most countries.
  • For motorbike taxis, settle on the cost of the ride before getting on. Ask fellow travelers for advice on how much a ride should cost.
  • Watch out for cyclo drivers that claim not to have change as a way to get more money out of you. If you need to, wait for one of those fruit vendors to come along and buy something from her to make change. You really should ask the cost to your destination and make sure you have exact change before you get in the cyclo. 
  • It’s best not to say anything bad about Ho Chi Minh while in Vietnam. He is still very much loved by his people.
  • people.

Hanoi
(Hà Nội)About this sound
How to get there:
By Bus from Nanning, China –
The bus station is called Lang Dong Bus Station. You can get there from Nanning Train station by taking city bus #6. The city bus costs 2 Yuan. There might be more buses that go between the train station and the bus station, but the #6 is the one that I know.
Once at the bus station you can buy a ticket on the next available bus out. They seem to run every two hours or as they fill up. There will be empty seats on the Chinese bus because the bus in Vietnam is much smaller. You change buses at the border, so the drivers never leave the country. The ticket costs 150 Yuan.
The ride is about 7 hours, but it will seem longer than that once they start to play the horrible Vietnamese pop music and the guy next to you starts throwing up in the aisle. I heard the Hanoi-Nanning train is worse, though I can’t see how.
I recommend getting someone to write a note for you stating that you want bus tickets to Hanoi.
Notes:
  • Make sure to bring your own pen. They do not have pens at any of the border controls and you will need to fill out a few forms.
  • Depending on what country you are from, you should get your visa before going to Vietnam.
    • As an America, I needed to have a visa before entering.

Hanoi Blue Sky
Hanoi Blue Sky Hotel 
(Khách Sạn Hanoi Blue Sky)
The Golden Time Hostel*
Address:
2 Hàng Gà, Hà Noi, Hanoi, Vietnam
Phone:
  • 3923 0514
  • 3923 1849
Videos:
Notes:
  • *While looking up information on The Hanoi Blue Sky Hotel, I noticed that the name has changed. They might have redecorated too.
  • You can book tours of Hanoi and to Ha Long Bay here.
  • They have free internet.
  • There is a restaurant in the hostel.
  • You can pay to have your laundry done here.
  • You don’t have to stay at Hanoi Blue Sky Hotel or any of the other sister hotels to book a trip or tours with them.

The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
(Lăng Chủ tịch Hồ Chí Minh)
  • 21°02’11.6″N 105°50’05.5″E
It is about a 30 minute walk from Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi. It shouldn’t cost too much to take a taxi, motorbike taxi, or a cyclo. You can also take bus #9 or #14.
Address:
5 Pho Ngoc Ha Hanoi, Vietnam
Phone:
  • +84 4 942 1061
Cost:
  • It is free to enter, but you are not allowed to bring anything like a purse, camera, water bottle, etc in with you.
  • There are lockers you can rent for a fee. If you are on a tour, your tour guide will hold your stuff for you.
Hours:
  • 8:00 – 11:00  Tues-Thur & Sat
Videos:
Notes: 
  • It’s best not to say anything bad about Ho Chi Minh while in Vietnam. He is still very much loved by his people.

Museum of Ethnology
(Bảo tàng Dân tộc học Việt Nam)
  • 21°02’22.6″N 105°47’52.9″E
The Museum is located in the Cau Giay district, twenty minutes by taxi from the city center. Take the #14 minibus which runs from Dinh Tien Hoang Street, north of Hoan Kiem lake, to the Nghia Tan stop a few blocks from the Museum.
Address:
Nguyen Van Huyen St, Cau Giay, Hano
Phone:
  • (84-4) 37562193
Hours:
Everyday 8:30 – 17:30 except Mondays and Vietnam New Year’s day
Cost:
  • Adult – 25,000VND,
  • Kids – 5,000VND,
  • Kids under 6 – Free
Notes:
  • Don’t forget to check out the grounds.

Ngoc Son Temple
(Đền Ngọc Sơn)
(Temple of the Jade Mountain)
  • 21°01’49.7″N 105°51’09.3″E
It’s the shrine in the middle of  Hoan Kiem Lake. Hoan Kiem Lake is in the tourist district of Hanoi. Most hostels or hotel worth visiting are within a walking distance of this lake.
If you have a hard time finding this place, just stop anyone walking around and ask them for directions.
Remember that you can get a free map from just about any hotel or hostel.
Cost:
Hours:
  • 8:00 – 17:00 everyday
Videos:
Notes:
  • Dedicated to the national hero, Trần Hưng Đạo.
  • It gets pretty hot in Hanoi during the day. It might be a good idea to walk around this place in the evening rather than in the middle of the day.
  • You could even end your walk with a visit to the water puppet theater. It has air conditioning!

Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre
(Múa rối nước)
  • 21°01’54.3″N 105°51’12.9″E
It is very near Hoan Kiem Lake. Ask anyone in the area and they will be able to point you in the right direction.
Address:
57b Dinh Tien Hoang Str., Hanoi – Vietnam
Phone:
  • (84) 4 39364335 or
  • 39364334 or
  • 38255450
Cost:
  • About 1 USD
  • with an extra .50USD if you want to take photos.
Shows last for about 50 minutes. The first show starts around 13:45 and the last around 20:00. There is a 9:30 show on Sunday mornings.
Notes:
It’s one of the few things in town with air conditioning!
Map:

Click here for Google maps

Friday, March 4, 2016

Crossing Over

Trip Date: May 13, 2008



The China-Vietnam Border
Want some Dong?
When I got to the Lang Dong Bus Station, a bus to Hanoi was just pulling out. I bought a ticket on the next bus and went downstairs to the KFC and had breakfast. I got some water and snacks from one of the “mini-mart” stands near the waiting area.
If you take this bus, make sure to use the bathroom before you get on. There is no bathroom on the bus and the first rest stop is a good 2 hours away.
I made sure that I was the first person on the bus. I might have even annoyed the gate attendant by constantly asking, “Can I get on the bus now?” I wanted a seat in the front row. If this bus were to crash, I wanted to see it coming.
Before we pulled out of the station they handed everyone a bottle of water and a barf bag. Then they played a Hong Kong action/comedy with English subtitles. I couldn’t watch it because reading on buses makes me nauseous, but at least it wasn’t one of those horrible loud music videos.
Before traveling to China I went to my bank in Korea and got some money changed into yuaneuros, and pounds. They didn’t have any dong ortögrög (Mongolian money). But at the border, right before going through the Chinese immigration check, there were money changers. They surrounded us and told us about the great rate they would give us. They spoke in Chinese, English, Vietnamese, and French.
I thought about changing some yuan into dong there, but there were so many of them and they were yelling at me all at once. It was a bit intimidating and I wasn’t sure about how legal changing money on the street was. (In many countries changing currency while not inside a bank is illegal.) So I entered Vietnam with no dong to my name.
I think one of the most enjoyable things about traveling in Vietnam is being able to constantly refer to their money as dong, which is pretty much what it’s worth.

A ride to the border
A Mad Rush
The Chinese border is on the eastern end of Pingxiang. There we got off the bus and into a glorified golf cart, provided by the bus company. It drove us up to the entrance of the Chinese immigration building. We went in, filled out a form, and stood in line. Everything was somewhat orderly.
When we came out the other end the “golf cart” was waiting for us. Some people chose to ride in the cart, others walked to the Vietnamese immigration check on the western end of Dong Dang. The cart cannot enter Vietnam, so those who rode in the cart had to walk part of the way anyhow.
In the Vietnamese immigration building it was a mad free for all. I had no idea what to do. I had to push and shove my way to the front of the crowd to ask questions. The man behind the glass window handed me a form to fill out. He didn’t say a word to me or even look up from his paper work. I had to hand in my passport along with the form.
The officer doesn’t just take your passport; you have to almost sneak it into the pile of passports on his desk. Anyone with a Vietnamese passport can jump the line by placing their passport on the top of the heap. There really isn’t an actual line, just a line-like form of chaos where people crowd around and yell until they get to go next.
I watched as he worked on his pile with my passport in the middle. Vietnamese people who had just arrived would toss their passports at him and quickly get it returned to them. Eventually my passport made its way to the top of the pile. When he was about to pick up my passport and check my visa to let me through, his co-worker plopped a mountain of passports on top of mine. That moved me to the back of the “line”.
I thought of some excuse, like, “I forgot to write the date” to get my passport back. I pretended to write something on the form and I put it back on top of the pile. This enabled me to skip all those people and move onto the next section of the immigration check.

This proves that I’m healthy.
Is the Doctor in?
Next was the health check. Vietnam wants to keep out contagious diseases so they do health checks to make sure that people don’t bring in any. They do this by charging you 2,000 Dong or 2 Yuan then giving you a piece of paper that says you’re healthy. There is no actual doctor nor is there any screening for any disease or virus; just a piece of paper.
Once I had my piece of paper an official pointed to a door and indicated that I was to go through it. I opened the door and walked in. Surprised to find myself outside I turned around to ask the official what to do next just in time to have the door slam in my face. It was locked. I checked to make sure I had my passport with the appropriate stamps. Everything seemed to be in order. I was in Vietnam, I guess…
After my unceremonious entrance into Vietnam I looked for my new bus. My old bus went back to Nanning taking the people who came in from Hanoi. I found the new bus. It was significantly smaller than the Chinese bus.
Because I was among the last to get on the bus, my new seat was in the last row next to a very fat man who kept trying to use me as a pillow when he wasn’t throwing up. How that man slept through all those pot holes and horrible, loud Vietnamese pop songs  I just don’t know. I do have a theory on why he threw up so much.
Just like the bus in China, the one in Vietnam also provided us with drinks. But instead of water, we were handed cans of… well, I’m still not sure what it was. It might not have even been a drink at all. It could have been soup or dessert. What ever it was, the picture on the can didn’t spark any feelings of thirst or hunger in me.
I handed mine to the fat man since he seemed to thoroughly enjoy his own wonky beverage. He showed his appreciation by chugging the drink in one go and smiling ecstatically afterwards. So, I guess his getting sick was, on some level, partly my fault. I made it up to him by unwillingly catching his head with my shoulder every time he dozed off.

China 
(中国)
How to get there:
  • You can enter by plane, train, boat, or bus
  • Make sure to get a visa before going to China.
  • Visas to China are expensive for people of some nationalities.
  • Getting a Chinese visa is not a quick process. Apply as soon as you can.


Phone:
Website:
There is a long list of websites that cannot be accessed while in China. Facebook, youtube, and parts of Wikipedia are just some of them. As with everything, there are ways around it. There are sites that will let you get to Facebook and other sites for free for about 15 minutes, then you will have to pay.
My advice is to find a few of them and use them for free. Then use them again on a different computer. If you are in China for a long time, then you might want to invest in paying for the service. Ask friends living in China for the best deals.
Videos:
Books:
*These books are banned in China. But I highly recommend reading Mao: The Unknown Story before going to Beijing.


  Notes:
  • If you want an internet cafe look for this (网吧) on a sign.

(Việt Nam)
How to get there:
  • You can enter by plane, train, boat, or bus.
  • Make sure to get a visa before going to Vietnam. Although some nationals can get a visa at the border for a few days, many cannot or will need a visa for longer stays.
  • Visit the Vietnamese embassy in your country to get a visa.
Phone:
Website:
Videos:
Books:


Notes:
  • Don’t worry if you cannot get Vietnamese dong from your local bank back home. You can get your dong at the airport either in your country or in Vietnam. Don’t get too much; no one will buy it back from you. Many hotels, fancy restaurants, and tour agents will take US dollars or Euros. Though, who knows what exchange rate they will use? You will need dong for taxis, small shops, and local restaurants and vendors.
  • When you get to Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh pick up a map of the area from any hotel, hostel, travel agency, or tourist information center. Once you have one of those you’ll be able to find anything.
  • Having a map of the area in Hanoi is very important. Every block has a different street name so once you know the name of street something is on you can easily find it with a map.
  • Wherever you choose to stay, make sure you bring a picture and the address of the hotel. One common trick that taxi and motorbike-taxi drivers like to pull is to take you to the wrong hotel. When you say, “I asked for ABC Hotel!” They will tell you that the name changed. They usually get a commission for bringing tourist to certain hotels.
    • Sometimes hotels do change names. But most likely a hotel will not change names between the time of your booking accommodations and your arrival without telling you.
  • Also for taxis, NEVER agree to a flat rate fee. The flat rate fee will always be way higher than it should be. Always demand that the cab driver use the meter. If he doesn’t want to use his meter, get out. Taxi drivers are a dime a dozen. This is true in most countries.
  • For motorbike taxis, settle on the cost of the ride before getting on. Ask fellow travelers for advice on how much a ride should cost.
  • Watch out for cyclo drivers that claim not to have change as a way to get more money out of you. If you need to, wait for one of those fruit vendors to come along and buy something from her to make change. You really should ask the cost to your destination and make sure you have exact change before you get in the cyclo. 
  • It’s best not to say anything bad about Ho Chi Minh while in Vietnam. He is still very much loved by his people.


Hanoi
(Hà Nội)About this sound
How to get there:
By Bus from Nanning –
The bus station is called Lang Dong Bus Station. You can get there from Nanning Train station by taking city bus #6. The city bus costs 2 Yuan. There might be more buses that go between the train station and the bus station, but the #6 is the one that I know.
Once at the bus station you can buy a ticket on the next available bus out. They seem to run every two hours or as they fill up. There will be empty seats on the Chinese bus because the bus in Vietnam is much smaller. You change buses at the border, so the drivers never leave the country. The ticket costs 150 Yuan.
The ride is about 7 hours, but it will seem longer than that once they start to play the horrible Vietnamese pop music and the guy next to you starts throwing up in the aisle. I heard the Hanoi-Nanning train is worse, though I can’t see how.
I recommend getting someone to write a note for you stating that you want bus tickets to Hanoi.
Notes:
  • Make sure to bring your own pen. They do not have pens at any of the border controls and you will need to fill out a few forms.
  • Depending on what country you are from, you should get your visa before going to Vietnam.
    • As an American, I needed to have a visa before entering.
Map:

Click here for Google maps

Wednesday, March 2, 2016

The People That You meet When You’re Walking Down the Street…

Trip Date: May 11-12, 2008



The People’s Monument by Rolex
Through the hostel where I was staying I was able to purchase a ticket on 6:59pm train to Nanning. This gave me a free day with nothing to do but wander the city.
Some of Chongqing looks like the ghetto. But there are very nice parts to the city. Downtown Chongqing is quite ritzy. In fact the monument in the middle of the shopping area is made by Rolex.

Downtown Chongqing
The people I met were very friendly. It seemed that anyone in town who could speak English came out to talk to me that day.
One Chinese guy, who travels to Vietnam often, walked around with me a bit and gave me advice on the must-sees in Hanoi. Another Chinese man sat and talked with me about the year he lived in Philadelphia. I spent most of the afternoon with a German guy who lived in Shanghai and was in Chongqing for vacation. He tried to get me to go with him to a beer garden, but I didn’t have time and I hate beer.

Chongqing train station
Well, what do you know?
When I got to Nanning it was late at night. My plan was to get to Vietnam as soon as possible. I left the train station and took the first nice-ish hotel I could find. Soon after, I regretted not going to a hostel. Although their English was just a little less than okay, the ladies at the front desk did not know enough about Nanning to be able to answer any of my questions.
I asked, “Where can I buy bus tickets to Hanoi?” They said, “We don’t know.”
The bus company had an office about two blocks away from the hotel. I couldn’t buy tickets there, but they gave me directions to the bus station. They also wrote a note for me in Chinese that said, “Please sell me a ticket on the next available bus to Hanoi.”
I asked, “Where can I find an internet café?” They said, “We don’t know.”
The internet café was three blocks away. This is when I learned about the earthquake. I was probably on the train at the time it hit.
Then the easiest question I asked was, “Where can I buy a bottle of water?” Again they didn’t know.
There was a mini-mart one block away from the hotel. They must see the store as they pass it everyday on their way to work. Or are they blindfolded and pushed out of a car that slows down a bit as it passes the hotel?
That was the last time I would ever stay in a hotel in China!


China 
(中国)
How to get there:
  • You can enter by plane, train, boat, or bus
  • Make sure to get a visa before going to China.
  • Visas to China are expensive for people of some nationalities.
  • Getting a Chinese visa is not a quick process. Apply as soon as you can.


Phone:
Website:
There is a long list of websites that cannot be accessed while in China. Facebook, youtube, and parts of Wikipedia are just some of them. As with everything, there are ways around it. There are sites that will let you get to Facebook and other sites for free for about 15 minutes, then you will have to pay.
My advice is to find a few of them and use them for free. Then use them again on a different computer. If you are in China for a long time, then you might want to invest in paying for the service. Ask friends living in China for the best deals.
Videos:
Books:
*These books are banned in China. But I highly recommend reading Mao: The Unknown Story before going to Beijing.


  Notes:
  • If you want an internet cafe look for this (网吧) on a sign.



Chongqing
(重庆)
  • You can get there by train, bus, plane, or boat.
  • 29°33’48.9″N 106°33’04.7″E
Videos:
Notes:
Bus 503 —
  • Use to go between the train station and Chaotianmen Gate (朝天门) near Chongqing Ying Bin Bus Station (重庆港迎宾汽车站).
  • Cost= 2 Yuan
Bus 120 —
  • Use to go between the train station and Chaotianmen Gate (朝天门) near Chongqing Ying Bin Bus Station (重庆港迎宾汽车站).
  • The #503 is a better choice when going to the train station because the #120 doesn’t stop in front of the station.
    • If you’ve gone through the tunnel, you’ve gone too far.
  • Cost= 1.o5 Yuan
Bus 608 –
  • Runs between the airport and Chongqing Ying Bin Bus Station (重庆港迎宾汽车站) near Chaotianmen Gate (朝天门).
  • Cost= 1 Yuan

Nanning
(南宁)
Plane –
Train –
There are also buses and boat into and out of Nanning.
Notes:
Map: